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Nutmegs and cruise liner passengers are the economic mainstays of the Caribbean spice island of Grenada. Nutmegs by the million are exported through the port of St Georges, cruise line passengers by the thousand come ashore there for a few hours of sightseeing and shopping. Small and crowded it may be, and badly in need of extension and refurbishment, but St Georges is the only deepwater port on the island and must be kept open at all costs.