Subscribe for full online access and get...
- Full, instant access to all stories
- Customised email alerts straight to your inbox
- Monthly print magazine
For the best possible experience using our website we recommend you upgrade to a newer version or another browser.
The tyres of my Chevrolet scrunch to a halt outside Soto Cano airbase some 80km north of the Honduran capital Tegucigalpa. It is 6.50am, I am 10 minutes early, and the jumpy young Honduran soldiers guarding the gates are in no mood to let me in. 'You must have a pass,' they bark. 'Pull up over there.'